The inspiration for this desk project using pole wrap was from one photo that had the most interesting pattern to look at.

The project can be broken down into 3 areas:

  • THE PATTERN
  • THE DESK TOP
  • THE BASE

THE PATTERN

  • You will need 4 rolls of pole wrap for this project from DIY Her Way (currently available in the UK & Ireland)
  • Section the door into squares
  • Each square will contain it’s own pattern
  • Cutting all the pieces will take some time but is absolutely the best part of the project
  • Assemble the pattern pieces in place, making sure to number them on the back as this project involved 25 pieces altogether

THE DESK TOP

  • Use an old door to save on material costs
  • Sandwich a layer of thin 3mm MDF board on top of the door
  • Glue the puzzle pieces to the MDF board using No More Nails
  • Cut off the excess door and round the edges
  • Add edging tape / GlassCast resin tape around the edge
  • Seal around the edging tape to prevent leaks / not required if using the tape
  • Pour the resin
  • Sand the edges

THE DESK TOP

  • Find some free bedside tables on Facebook Marketplace
  • Cut off any excess trim for a more streamlined look
  • Sand, prime and paint
  • Fill old handle holes with wood filler
  • Drill new handle holes and switch the hardware to gold
  • Add some curved painted pole wrap to the bottom to finish the sides

Here are the in-depth steps on exactly the process to achieve this desk project:

Step 1

Cut a square template from cut-off wood and mark out on your door.

Step 2

Cut the pole wrap into square puzzle pieces to size using the inspiration picture as guidance.

Step 3

Sand the edges of the pole wrap along the cut line to make good.

 

Top cutting tip: Add frog tape along the cut line to prevent the wood splintering.

Step 4

Start assembling the square puzzle pieces on top of the desk and measure the exact top surface area covered.

Steps 5 & 6

  • Cut a hardwood board to size and attach to the top of the door using No More Nails.
  • Glue the puzzle pieces down using No More Nails.

Step 7

Cut off any excess from the door and round the corners.

Steps 8, 9 & 10

  • Iron on the edging tape, leaving a 5mm gap at the top for the resin to sit in.
  • Seal around the edge with waterproof sealant to ensure a good seal all the way around the edge. Otherwise, the resin will pour onto the floor.
  • Fill in all the gaps with oak coloured sealant to make the surface good.

Note: It is much easier to use resin tape to hold the resin and add the edging tape afterwards.

Step 11

Mix up the resin and paint on a thin paint sealing coat.

This will take 24 hours to cure.

Step 12

  • Sand the table with 120-grit sandpaper and give it a clean before applying the final pour
  • The GlassCast resin is self-levelling but just check your desk is level before you start to pour
  • Pour the resin and spread around with a notch spreader
  • This will take 24 hours to fully cure

Step13

While the resin is curing you can get to work on the cabinets, which will form the base for your desk:

  • Cut off any bulky excess wood pieces
  • Sand
  • Prime
  • Paint the cabinets and some pole wrap sheets to finish either end

Step 14

  • Sand, prime and paint the desk drawers
  • Fill old holes, drill new holes, and attach new hardware

Step 15

  • Cut away the excess edging tape at the top and remove any leftover sealant in preparation for sanding.

Step 16

  • Sand the resin through the grits starting at 120 up to 1200 grits
  • It is always best to wet sand resin, so mist with water first and use waterproof sandpaper
  • Sanding will round the edge off beautifully, so you are left with a smooth surface
  • After you have sanded the resin, you must polish it to go from the matt sanded look to a glass-like finish

Note: Always wear protective eyewear, a mask and gloves as the sanded resin particles are hazardous.

Before & After

FAQs

A: GlassCast have a calculator on their website, but it is 2kg per square metre of resin you will need. You can calculate this by weight at a ratio of 2 to 1 (resin to hardener).

A: Mix part A (the resin) with part B (the hardener) for 3 minutes. Pour the resin into a clean pot (IMPORTANT) and stir again for 3 minutes – this will ensure the resin is fully mixed.

A: Wood is a porous material, and if you go ahead without one you run the risk of air being drawn out of the wood, and into the resin forming air bubbles.

A: You will not be able to make an impression with your fingernail.

A: There is no easy answer here – it means that the sticky area was a patch of unmixed resin and there is no “hardener” mix in it and it will not cure. Dig out the soft resin and mix more.

A: Yes, wet sanding is best as dry sanded resin particles are hazardous. GlassCast have some great instructional videos on this on the website

A: GlassCast sell a polish called NW1 that is specifically designed for hard plastics like cured epoxy resin. For an optional extra step – add GlassCast’s Top Finish for a mirror like finish.

A: The NW1 is self-diminishing, so as you add more polishing compound it will start from its most course state. What does this mean in layman’s terms? Each time you apply the polish, make sure you are covering the whole area and work it down, so it disappears.

A: There is a story highlight named “DESK” on Instagram at @SurreyHouseDIY that documents the entire process – INCLUDING THE MISTAKES!

Materials used:

  • Door
  • Hardboard (L) 1.22m (W) 2.44m (T) 3mm – cut to size by B&Q
  • Pole Wrap
  • Square cut off (for template)
  • No More Nails
  • Clear Silicone sealant (No Nonsense 310ml)
  • Wood Flooring Sealant Oak (No Nonsense 310ml)
  • Iron-on edging tape (5cm high)
  • GlassCast 3 epoxy coating resin (5kg pack)
  • Gold Handles

Tools Used:

  • Frog Tape
  • Pencil
  • Iron
  • Stanley Knife
  • Spirit Level
  • Notch spreader
  • Stirrer
  • Rafter square / speed square OR ruler
  • Electric sander
  • Jig Saw
  • Mitre Saw

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